Days 129 – 133: Closing Out Bali In Canggu

Are you tired of reading about us going to the beach yet?  I’m not sure we will ever tire of being at the beach, and Canggu in Bali was certainly a beauty.

I will attempt to keep this post pretty short because a.) I’m behind like whoa on posts, and b.) we were total beach bums. Let me try to see what is worth sharing about being super lazy for five days in a beach town in Bali!

Day 129: Travel from Ubud to Canggu in Bali

We really loved our time in the hills of Ubud, Bali and were excited to see what going to the beach looked like in Bali.

I’ll spare you the details, but Ubud is decidedly anti-Uber.  Apparently, there is a really strong taxi, umm, union, and we cancelled our Uber after our driver gave us the sketchiest instructions: “Go into a cafe to wait for me.  Tell me your names, and when I come in, act like you have known me for a very long time.  Very long.  Do not, under any circumstances, wait on the street for me.  THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.”  Umm, we’re good.  Thank you, next.

After about an hour drive in a taxi, we arrived at our beautiful villa!  This AirBNB is owned by a woman from New York, and we had a bedroom and bath that walked out on to a pretty pool and courtyard.

Yes.  So Bali– this mural was in our villa’s driveway.
Pool in Canggu
At our villa in Canggu

For lunch, we walked down the street to a yummy Thai place called Bangkok Hustle.  And here I’m going to share what was probably our biggest frustration with Canggu: the sidewalk situation.

Bear with me.  We really do not have the budget to rent a car or bike or pay for taxis except for very infrequently.  We also love to walk and find it to be the best way to ensure we get enough exercise.  When walking turns out to be dangerous or difficult, we get really frustrated because it makes getting around that much harder.

Canggu was filled with twenty-something kids on holiday who all rent motorbikes, to the extent that there is motorbike traffic.  We also watched a very intoxicated woman run her bike off the road.  Seriously.  So being a pedestrian on these bike-filled roads was not our favorite.

For dinner, we found a place that served authentic banh mi.  Well, authentic in taste; they were delicious.  At about $3/sandwich, it was the cheapest meal we could find and at least twice as much as we paid while we were eating them in Vietnam.  Vietnam spoiled us for authentic, inexpensive, delicious street food!

Banh mi!

Day 130: Rich’s Third Haircut 

(Of the trip.)

We ate breakfast cooked for us at our villa, and then Rich walked to get his haircut, and I read by the pool.

His hair looked good! The barber left it a bit long on the top, so we’ll see how it does for the next six weeks…Stretching the time between haircuts is one more way to stretch the budget.

Rich’s haircut in Canggu

We spent the rest of the day blogging and planning and spending time at the pool.  If I were to name the place on the trip where we realized we were just worn out, it was definitely Canggu.  Being on the move for the past five months caught up with us!

For lunch, we ate our second banh mi and ate dinner at Bangkok Hustle…again.  It was during this dinner that we watched the young lady run her bike off of the road, and we bonded over the experience with an Australian couple next to us.

Bangkok Hustle in Canggu
Yummy Thai food at Bangkok Hustle

Joel and Jane, our new Australian friends, shared that many Australians treat Bali, and Canggu in particular, as their playground where they head to let loose.  We really enjoyed chatting with them and sharing experiences of long-term travel.  Joel and Jane are taking close to a year to explore Australia in a van.   As in they are living out of a van.  Hard core! Check out their blog if you are interested in learning more about what that’s like!

Day 131: Visiting the Beach at Canggu

We weren’t total beach bums; before breakfast, we jumped out of bed and did a couple of body weight workouts on my Aaptiv app.

We then enjoyed the breakfast provided by the villa and spent a few hours by the pool.  We ate lunch at a nearby cafe.  Bali has a plethora of amazing restaurants serving fresh, healthy food from around the world.  Our budget limits where and how much we eat, but if you are looking for a vacation where you enjoy a smoothie bowl for breakfast, a huge warm pumpkin quinoa bowl for lunch, and practically anything you can imagine for dinner, I highly recommend finding a way to get to Bali.

Healthy lunch options

Late in the afternoon, we walked to the beach to see it and catch a sunset.  Our walk was a good thirty minutes– remember, the sidewalk situation– but it was worth every step.  The beach was beautiful, with huge, powerful waves.  And there were so many surfers!  There were easily 50-75 surfers trying to catch a wave  when we arrived.  It was rather magical; I had never seen any kind of surfing scene like that.  It could have been in a movie.

We enjoyed walking the beach, and watching the sun set over the water.

For dinner, we ate at a great pizza place called Luigi’s Hot Pizza.  They had plenty of outdoor seating, white bistro lights, and lots of young male servers who clearly had a lot of fun working with each other.  We split a tiramisu for dessert, and it was divine.  Pizza + beach = great day

Day 132: Football + Work

The Georgia Bulldogs are enjoying a great season, and we woke up at 3:30 AM to cheer on the Dawgs against Kentucky.  Thankfully, Georgia won, and then we kept watching football to see the beginning of the Alabama v. LSU game.  Alabama quickly went to work against LSU, and we went ahead and ate breakfast.

And then, of course, we enjoyed our UGA victory nap.

We spent the rest of the day:

  • By the pool,
  • Followed by banh mi for lunch (again),
  • Followed by blog posting/trip planning,
  • And culminating in another dinner at Bangkok Hustle.
Smoothie Bowl at our villa

We are nothing if not consistent.

Day 133: La Brisa Beach Club

We spent our last full day in Bali– and in Asia!– at the beach.  Bali has a number of beach clubs.  Each club has a minimum spend on food and drinks, but then you get access to beach chairs, a pool, a pool deck, restrooms, and a restaurant and bar.  Finn’s Beach Club is probably the most well-known, but we decided to head to La Brisa as it opened pretty recently, and we liked its aesthetic.

The amount you have to spend is a little lower if you arrive earlier in the day, so we made the sidewalk-less trek over at about noon.

The set up was perfect!  We had chairs on the deck above the beach and were able to put our feet up on the ledge and take out our books.  We enjoyed a beer, read for several hours, took a quick swim in the pool, and then ordered lunch.  It was so relaxing and easy as all days at the beach should be!

 

For dinner, we grabbed, you guessed it, banh mi for dinner.  Our new favorite restaurant had a loyalty program where when you bought five banh mi, you got your sixth free.  In five short days, we had earned ourselves a free sandwich.  Hot dog! Did I mention we are budget travelers?

Final Thoughts on Canggu

Don’t get me wrong, Bali is pretty amazing.  It is one of the most visually stunning places we have visited, there is an abundance of delicious food, and it is really easy to navigate, even if you have not traveled abroad extensively.

We were pretty worn out by the time we made it to Canggu though, and one impression we had of Bali was just that everyone was trying to out Bali each other.  It’s a place where you hear sentences like, “Surfing brought such fulfillment to my inner small child while also empowering me as a fearless boss woman.  I really worked up an appetite so I cannot wait to devour my chi seed hemp milk with a side of raw organic sprouts.  But it also dried my skin out so let me apply this new placenta coconut oil lotion I just picked up.”

It is totally cool if you have that kind of energy, but at that point in our travels, wearing the same clothes out of the same backpack and living on a budget, we just did not.  We had a great five days, really, but we have come to realize that our favorite places are places that don’t try too hard to be who they are, or rather where the people who visit do not feel pressure to fit a certain mold and check off extravagant bucket list items.  We enjoyed Canggu for what it was for us: five more days to rest and re-charge together, surrounded by beauty.

 

Our FOURTH 30 Days Abroad: By the Numbers

These posts feel a bit like the monthly baby photos– we should have brought some sort of cute stuffed animal to mark our time away!

Not to compare our travels to raising an actual human child, but I will admit to feeling a little #proudparent -ish of how we are growing as travelers.  These posts may not mean as much to our readers as they mean to us, but Rich and I really enjoying spending time together reflecting and crafting these every thirty days.

Amanda has an unhealthy obsession with Gritty, the new Philadelphia Flyers mascot. He’s ugly, but he’s our ugly. It was only a matter of time before she slid him into the blog.

Without further adieu, our FOURTH 30 days!  And if you like this post or want to see the progression of thirty day reflections, be sure to check out our first , second , and third thirty day review posts too.

Dates Included: September 24 – October 23, 2018

Countries Visited: 4 (Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia)

Cities/Towns Visited: 9 (Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Phuket, Krabi, Koh Samui, Penang, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Yogyakarta)

TRANSPORTATION

As you can see, our modes of transportation varied greatly in these 30 days!  It’s not just planes, trains, and automobiles for us.

Flights: 7

Bus Rides: 1

Taxi/Uber/Grab Rides: 28 (22 Grab rides)

Van Rides: 3

Tuk Tuk Rides: 1

Funicular Rides: 1

Ferry Rides: 1

Train Rides: 1

Long Boat Rides: 2

Rich boarding the ferry to Koh Samui, Thailand
LODGING

AirBNB’s: 5

Hotels: 4

FOOD

Percentage of Meals Eaten Out: 60% (41 meals)

Percentage of Meals Eaten In: 21% (14 meals)

Percentage of Meals Eaten in Airport Lounges: 15% (10 meals)

Percentage of Meals Provided by Hotels or AirBNB’s: 4% (3 meals)

PHYSICAL ACTIVITY

If you are a frequent reader of these posts, you know that while Rich and Amanda spend most of their time together, walking what you would assume to be the same distances, Rich consistently records many more miles than Amanda.  Will the tide turn?  Or will Rich continue his walking dominance?

Rich

  • Total Distance: 342,795 steps (158.40 miles)
  • Average Daily Distance: 11,460 steps (5.28 miles)
  • Daily High: 22,434 steps (10.30 miles)
  • Daily Low: 1,676 steps (0.77 miles)

Amanda

  • Total Distance: 296,857 steps (133.22 miles)
  • Average Daily Distance: 9,895 steps (4.44 miles)
  • Daily High: 20,759 steps (9.07 miles)
  • Daily Low: 132 steps (.06 miles)

Rich wins.  I am also confident that the day I only had 132 steps was a day that I had my FitBit off, if only because we have not stayed anywhere where I could have only gone 132 steps and still eaten food.

INTELLECTUAL ACTIVITY

We had a tough time finding anything to read where you would want to read the most: the beaches of Thailand!  As you can see, Rich and I both continued to love Kevin Kwan, the author of megahit Crazy Rich Asians.

Rich

Amanda

Reading at the beach in Koh Samui.
OVERALL COSTS AS PERCENTAGE OF TOTAL BUDGET

Flights: 16% (12% decrease)

Other Transportation (Buses, Trains, Ferries, Taxis, Funiculars): 10% (5% increase)

Lodging: 41% (1% decrease)

Food:  21% (5% increase)

Sightseeing: 3% (same)

Other (Books, Haircut, Laundry, Toiletries, Massages, Yoga): 9% (3% increase)

FAVORITES:

Favorite Meal:

  • Amanda: Rich’s birthday dinner at Akira Back in Bangkok.  We had the best sushi of my life.
  • Rich: My birthday meal at Akira Back in Bangkok. Amazing sushi.
The aforementioned sushi. It was so delicious, we forgot to take a picture of it until after we had eaten a few pieces already.

Favorite AirBNB:

Favorite Hotel:

  • Amanda: I really loved the Grand Sunset Hotel, our hotel in Phuket, Thailand.  There was a beautiful rooftop pool, and they had all kinds of little free treats throughout the day: coffee from 3-4 PM, popcorn and a cocktail from 6-7 PM, and free ice cream from 8-10 PM.
  • Rich: I loved our boutique hotel in Singapore, Hotel Yan. It was stylish, sleek, and perfectly located. They had the best toiletries and mini bar with free Cokes, M & M’s, and chips replenished daily.
At Hotel Yan!

Favorite City/Town:

  • Rich: Singapore
  • Amanda: Singapore

Favorite Beach/Pool: 

  • Amanda: So many beaches!  I really liked Railey Beach in Thailand.  Runner up goes to Phuket where we got the amazing sunset pictures.
  • Rich: Railey Beach was beautiful, but so hot! We lasted maybe 30 minutes before we were covered in sweat and retreated to the water, followed by a couple of Tiger beers with a view.

Favorite Mode of Transportation: 

  • Rich: I really enjoyed the rawness of traveling in the long boat to Railey Beach and back. It was exciting wading into the water and climbing in and out of the boat. There was a real authentic feeling that made me feel like a local.
  • Amanda: I did not enjoy the long boat because I thought we might drown.  I don’t have a specific flight, but I loved anytime we flew and got to go to an airport lounge.  It is so nice to be able to eat as much as we want and drink an extra latte without worrying about costs.
In front of two long boats in Krabi, Thailand

Favorite Book:

  • Amanda:  I weirdly read two books (Truly, Madly, Guilty and The Slap) about adults behaving badly at backyard barbecues in Australia.   Me Talk Pretty One Day was the first David Sedaris book I had ever read, and it was both hilarious and touching.  So it wins as my favorite book for these 30 days.
  • Rich:  Crazy Rich Asians. If you have not noticed yet, I…love…Kevin…Kwan… Almost as much as Amanda loves Gritty.

Least Favorite Moment:

  • Rich: We landed in Yogyakarta and our hotel was only a 23 minute walk from the airport according to Google Maps. We decided to tough it out and walk, can’t be that hard right? WRONG! We had to go a different route than what Google Maps stated due to airport security, and it added about 10 minutes to the walk in 90 degree heat with 20 and 25 lb backpacks on. When we arrived at our hotel, we were tired and drenched in sweat. FAIL!
  • Amanda: Trying to hike to the Big Buddha statue in Phuket and failing because the blog directions I followed were terrible.  I should have done more research before leading us down the wrong road in really hot weather.  Not finding a statue is really not that bad, but Rich and I got cross with one another, so that moment stands out as being my least favorite.  If you are going to argue, you should at least be able to do it in air conditioning.

Most Favorite Moments: 

  • Amanda:  I loved the day in Singapore where we walked and walked and walked and saw the SuperTrees and then had a drink at the top of the magnificent Marina Bay Sands.  It helped that we had seen Crazy Rich Asians in Singapore the night before– on our long walk, we passed so many places from the movie.  I also loved getting a Thai massage in Krabi, Thailand, and I loved our routine in Kuala Lumpur, especially getting to go to the amazing gym in our building.  On our last morning in KL, we got up to go to the gym but it didn’t open until 7 AM so we headed to the building’s putting green (yes, the building had a putting green) to do an Aaptiv strength training workout in the dark.  Right as we finished, the Call to Prayer came on softly in the background, and we were surrounded by all these huge skyscraper buildings– it was a moment where I really felt like I was a world away from home, experiencing something I never could have scripted if I tried.
  • Rich: I loved the sunsets at our rooftop pool in Phucket. I also loved our Thai massages in Krabi. But my favorite thing was EVERYTHING in Singapore. From seeing Crazy Rich Asians to eating at the hawker stands to the beautiful SuperTrees to the drink and view from the Marina Bay Sands, it was everything I imagined.  One day, I will swim in that infinity pool.
Enjoying Singapore and being on top of the world at the Marina Bay Sands.

DELTAS:

Looking back on the last thirty days, here are a few things we might have done a little differently.

  1. Eating out so much has been tough.  I think we have been to three grocery stores in Southeast Asia.  There are frequently 7-11’s or small local markets, but if I were to try to cook a whole meal, I’m not sure I would know where to start.  Eating out occasionally is nice, but Rich and I are both pretty introverted and so we find eating in way more relaxing.  And I miss cooking and eating what I have cooked.
  2. We would not have gone to Iceland.  Wait, aren’t you supposed to be talking about Southeast Asia?  Yes, stay with me.  We were looking at the budget last night, and we have done a pretty decent job staying on budget in Southeast Asia.  And yet, we are still over budget on the trip…for almost the exact amount of money it cost us to go to Iceland.  Iceland was pretty but was SO expensive, especially when viewed in light of how far the money for those 6 days would go in Southeast Asia (read: it would pay for everything for 19 days).  And we slept in a tent in Iceland and ate hot dogs.  We should have saved Iceland for a trip of its own versus including it in our around-the-world trip.
  3. We wish we had picked a better AirBNB location in Bangkok.  As I think about how much we loved Kuala Lumpur and Singapore and how meh we felt about Bangkok, I have to think that if we had been in walking distance of the things we wanted to visit in Bangkok, we would have liked it more.  Bangkok traffic was insane (makes 75/85 traffic in Atlanta and 676 traffic in Philly look light) and so it took forever to get anywhere.  And Rich and traffic are not friends.

LOVES:

  1. Our new planning routine.  Since Phuket, Rich and I have dedicated time to meet with each other to calendar out our time in each new location.  This facilitates a discussion about our priorities for what we want to see and do in each place so that we are on the same page from the jump.  If I am being honest, sometimes it is hard to really tune in and listen to Rich, not because he isn’t charming and interesting, but because we spend all of our time together and sometimes he’s talking to me, but I am daydreaming or playing on my phone or am just otherwise distracted.  During our meetings though, I can totally tune in, focus, and pay attention.
  2. The balance of beaches and cities in the last 30 days.  We had a lot of beach and pool time in Thailand, but we also spent a significant amount of time in some of the largest cities in Southeast Asia in Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, and Singapore.  The balance was nice.  We could chill in the beach towns, and then enjoy walking and moving as much as we did in the big cities.
  3. Being together!  Nope, not sick of each other yet.  In fact, the longer we are gone, the more common experiences we have to compare and share with one another.  Rich was organizing our Insta stories the other night, and just watching videos of everywhere we have been and all we have done was so fun.  Remember when we watched the World Cup in Croatia (but left because the fireworks were scary and the fans were throwing beer bottles!), and then we were in Malta and we ended up at Friday Happy Hour with the St. Vincent Retirement Community, and then we were in Hanoi, Vietnam exercising with thousands of people in the early morning hours? All of our experiences build and build and build.  This is truly a trip of a lifetime, and we love sharing all of it with each other.
Sunset in Phuket

Book #2: Exit West: A Novel

Connecting Pachinko, a family saga of Korean migrants in Japan, to travel in Iceland was a bit of a reach.  Linking Exit West: A Novel , the second read of this trip, to our travels is no challenge at all.

Exit West: A Novel by Mohsin Hamid opens in a fictional war-torn country and follows the arc of the romantic relationship between the two main characters, Nadia and Saeed.  As intense fighting breaks out in their city, Nadia and Saeed clearly cannot stay and so they look to magical doors, popping up all over the world, to transport them away together.

This is a story of human migration, and Hamid helps his readers understand what it is to try to start again in lands that do not want you.  His prose is clear, and at the same time, lyrical.  I re-read The English Patient way too many times in high school (weirdly without ever watching the movie), and Hamid’s beautiful, poetic language, which refuses to look away from destruction and loss, made me think of The English Patient throughout the course of this read.

I will avoid delving into American politics, but this is a book that shows deep empathy to the plight of a refugee.  Rich and I are the most willing of travellers– we carefully and excitedly craft our route, we have loving families to whom we can return back at home, and our American passports act like our own personal magic doors taking us wherever we desire and back again. Businesses welcome us almost anywhere we go because we have money to spend.

And yet, there are still challenges.  It’s cold; it rains; we get ripped off in the Market on up-charges with our lunch.  Sometimes we are tired and cannot find a bathroom. We are sure the locals are laughing at us and our Rainbow flip flops.

I cannot imagine fleeing home in order to survive, only to be met with disgust.  The trauma!  The toxic stress!  How can humanity be both so resilient and so cruel?  (See: Our visit to the Dohany Street Synagogue and Memorial Gardens.)

This novel is absolutely of this historical moment.  It belongs on the “woke” book club list (Looking at you, SDP Office of Talent).  Read it.

Finished Exit West in Budapest (Shown at the Szechenyi Bath House)

Book #1: Pachinko by Min Jin Lee

I love to read and knew I would want to read as much as possible on our trip.  There are so many readers whom I love in my life,  but I should just go ahead and dedicate all of my book reviews to Elise, one of the best high school English teachers I know, who recommends all of my favorite books.

Elise recommended Pachinko by Min Jin Lee months ago, and when it arrived and was 479 pages long, I thought, “What a perfect book for the first several weeks of travel.”

Unfortunately/fortunately, it was so good that I started it on day one out of the country only to finish it on day two.  While a respectable case of jet lag and 22 hours of daylight in Iceland certainly contributed to this being such a quick read, Pachinko was also just that good.  Five Stars.  Read it.

The basics: The story follows four generations of a family of Korean immigrants to Japan from 1900 through 1989.  The character development is deep, allowing you to understand why each character makes both the good and bad choices he or she makes and to also watch the intergenerational effects of those decisions play out.

Reading this made me remember what it was like to read a romantic novel at my all-girls Catholic school and then to have it out defending character’s choices with my classmates.  Pachinko begs for the same sort of moral wrestling as Wuthering Heights, The Good Earth, Jane Eyre, Pride and Prejudice, and The Scarlet Letter.  Like I need someone from St. Cecilia to read this and call me tomorrow.

Rich suggested that I end my book reviews with a reflection relating my reading to my travel.  A major theme of Pachinko revolves around the idea of what home is when you are outside of your native land.  It hit me on a long car ride today through southern Iceland that usually when a vacation winds down you think of all the things you cannot wait to go home and do.  For us, it’s to spread out on our big couch and catch up on a show.  This time, however, my big couch is in storage, and when we leave Iceland, we will be in Budapest.  How do you build home when you no longer have one physical place that you live?  How do you build home when you are an outsider in a foreign land?

Read this book!  Thanks, Elise!

Pachinko and Waterfalls in Iceland