Pool Archives · Page 2 of 2 · Bon Voyage on a Big Adventure!

October 11, 2018October 12, 2018

Days 98 – 101: Oh Phuket, Thailand

Ah, Thailand beaches. Great for our tans and our moods, maybe not so great for content for the blog. But hey, Phuket, let’s go.

Day 98: Travel from Bangkok to Phuket

As you can imagine, the trail from Bangkok to Phuket is well traveled. We hopped in our Grab (Uber’s SE Asia cousin), and the driver said, “Let me guess: you are headed to Phuket.”

Getting to the Airport

Our Grab ride to the Don Muang airport had us grabbing for a reason anyone would want to live in a city with so much traffic. What is a twenty minute drive on paper took us well over an hour. We had also stayed up until 4:00 AM watching the Philadelphia Eagles lose to the Tennessee Titans and then had to be back up by 5:30 AM to pack and catch a cab. Eeek.

We Heart Airport Lounges

Rich and I got to return to one of our favorite lounges in Bangkok, our airport BFF, to work on our THIRD thirty day post, in the same booth where we wrote our second thirty day post. What beautiful, unplanned symmetry! Also, unlimited free coffee.

Then we almost missed our flight when it got delayed, according to the display board, and then moved back up to its regular time according to a hard-to-understand PA announcement. I thought I heard them say Phuket the first time (Rich: “I didn’t hear it.”), and then Rich and I both definitely heard them say it the second time, followed by “final call.” We sprinted out of the lounge and to the gate to be greeted by a long line of other people who still needed to board.

The flight to Phuket was really stunning as we landed over green islands and deep blue water. From the airport, we took about a thirty minute long shuttle to our hotel and got checked in.

We stayed at the Grand Sunset Hotel, and as advertised, its pool had killer sunset views as well as a free sunset cocktail with free freshly popped popcorn. It’s the small things. Settling in at the pool felt just right.

sunset cocktail in Phuket — Enjoying my sunset cocktail. It’s orange. Like the sunset. Super clever.

Day 99: We Went to the Pool

Umm, it rained in the morning so Rich and I did some work, and then we went to the pool. Then it rained some more so we had a “meeting” where we calendar-ed out how we were going to spend our days in Phuket, and then we showered and went back to the pool for our sunset cocktail. Then we walked out to the beach for a minute and on to dinner.

Let’s just swing by the ocean for a minute on the way to dinner.

A note about Phuket: there are a lot of Russians. Most of the signs for restaurants were translated into English, and they were ALL translated into Russian. In almost all of the other areas of Southeast Asia we have visited, there have been many Asian tourists and many Australian backpackers. In Phuket, we just saw Russians. It struck us as interesting, so I thought I would share.

Day 100: We Tried to Visit Big Buddha, Failed, and Got Epic Sunset Pictures

About PHuket

I have done a terrible job describing Phuket. Most importantly, it’s beautiful. We stayed across the street from a large wide beach with tan colored sand. The water is super blue, and there are huge white waves that roll in. It is exactly what you want a beach to look like.

Secondly, Phuket is surrounded by rolling, incredibly lush, green hills. I think if you planted a seed in Phuket today, you would have a giant blooming plant next week, that’s how fertile the environment is. The green of the hills is just as majestic as the blue of the sea.

Trying to Visit Big Buddha

At the top of one of these green hills is a huge Buddha that you could see from the roof of our hotel. Since I knew we would mostly spend our time in Phuket by water not exercising and not seeing sights, I thought hiking to it would be a good plan. We could see it, take some pictures, get some exercise, and enjoy the hike together.

I came across a blog with step-by-step directions of how to easily hike to Big Buddha. Awesome. The directions included everything except an address of the starting point. Maybe you see where this is going.

Long story long, we got up early, put on workout clothes (long running tights for me so I would be fully covered to go in the temple), walked the twenty five minutes in 85+ degree tropical heat to where we thought the starting point would be…and the starting point wasn’t there.

I’ll speed things up: we walked around looking some more, got very, very cross with one another, and sulkily walked home (Amanda) having not found the trail or seen the Big Buddha.

We did some apologies, and then we went to the pool.

getting lost in Phuket — One large hill we walked up on our way not to the big Buddha.

I’m probably going to have to write about this epic fail on the blog so let me take this terrible selfie.

Taking Epic Sunset Pictures

We lucked into an incredible sunset that night and were able to take really just the best sunset pictures we could have imagined.

It was fortuitous because it was DAY ONE HUNDRED of our trip, and we could do a whole big, beautiful Instagram spread of this gorgeous sunset, looking just the happiest.

As I type, we received 598 LIKES on Instagram on this post. That is clearly the most likes we have ever received, and obviously means one day we might be internet famous.

And the funniest part is that we were as annoyed with/frustrated at/bothered by each other that day as we have been since we left the United States. We are fine now, but getting lost looking for Big Buddha was not a high point of our marriage.

So, enjoy these beautiful pictures, and remember: social media is not real.

Rich examines his bicep. He does this at least once every day. Yep. Still there.

Same sunset, from the roof of our hotel.

Day 101: It Rained

Sometimes a rainy day at the beach is okay! Here’s how we spent the day:

We walked to breakfast and home before it rained.
I blogged.
Rich finished reading Crazy Rich Asians and started China Rich Girlfriend. The man is obsessed. He thinks author Kevin Kwan is his best friend and that all of the main characters are people we actually know. We have big plans to go see the Crazy Rich Asians movie in Singapore where the books are set– we will keep you posted.
Rich and I took a nap.
We ran out in the rain to get dinner and then ran back home (somewhere along our travels Rich lost his rain jacket).

As I’m sure you can surmise, Phuket was really low key. No temples. No tours. Just beach and pool with a sprinkling of rain.

The only picture I took on our rainy day. Coffee + Yogurt.

What we loved about Phuket:

The amazing beach
Our hotel. They did a great job of providing small treats that really helped budget travelers like us. They served free, GOOD coffee from 3-4 PM, provided a yummy sunrise cocktail and popcorn from 6:00 – 6:30 PM, and offered ice cream from 8- 10 PM. The pool was also really fantastic.
Phuket was pretty walkable, and our hotel was centrally located.
Karon Beach, where we stayed, was family friendly. No wild backpacker parties (you know you are old when this falls in the loved section).

What we didn’t like/felt meh about in Phuket:

Phuket is a town that seems like maybe it peaked about 10 years ago. Restaurants are a bit dated/cheesy, and unless you eat street food, are definitely overpriced.
Coffee in the morning was really hard to come by. The earliest any of the coffee shops near us opened was 10 AM– although they then stayed open until at least 10 PM.
The signage was really bad. Big Buddha is a major attraction. Would it kill you to have a sign?
We couldn’t find a bookstore. I am out of books to read. You are a beach town. How does a beach town not have a bookstore? Unfathomable.

If you want hip and modern, go to Chiang Mai. If you just want to sit in the sand and look at beautiful sunsets, well, Phuket. You’ll be glad you did.

October 9, 2018

Days 90 – 93: Chiang Mai, Thailand (Our Favorite, Our Favorite, Our Favorite)

So, of course, we loved Budapest and Korcula and Heraklion and Hoi An and the list goes on. But when I say we LOVED being in Chiang Mai, Thailand– we LOVED it. We stayed in the Nimman neighborhood, and it was just. so. hip.

I’m excited to write about it, and I hope you are excited to read. Come explore Chiang Mai with us!

Day 90: Travel from Luang Prabang, Laos to Chiang Mai, Thailand

At this point, we pretty much have airplane travel down, and this was an easy one direct flight trip. We took a tuk tuk from our AirBNB to the Luang Prabang airport, and then our host arranged for us to be picked up from the Chiang Mai airport when we arrived.

Our AirBNB in Chiang Mai was in a pretty new apartment complex that wasn’t that different from any apartment building we had lived in DC over the past ten years. There was a pool and a gym– perfect!

We are taking a new approach to travel days, especially in Thailand where we have pools everywhere we stay: Get to the AirBNB/hotel. Go to the pool. Relax. Make a plan for how to spend the next few days.

This plan was on point. First, I arrived in Chiang Mai having read all of the books we had with us, but in the apartment, there was a copy of Trevor Noah’s Born a Crime: Stories from a South African Childhood. A free, great book to read at pool? Hallelujah! Chiang Mai is already winning. Second, the pool was an infinity pool with spectacular views of the hills of Chiang Mai. Does it get better?

Reading at the pool. Does it get better?

Pool in Chiang Mai — Rich also “reading” at the pool.

The Nimman Neighborhood and Nimman Social

So our neighborhood is named Nimman for Nimmanhaemin Road which runs through the center of the area. In Nimman, you will find cafes, bars, and boutiques that all look like they jumped off the pages of Instagram’s top accounts. The food is delicious and healthy, the shops are adorable, and everything is right next to everything else.

For my American readers, you may be thinking, well, is Chiang Mai as hip as Brooklyn or as Twelve South in Nashville or Fishtown in Philly? IT IS HIPPER. Seriously. We thought Nimman might be like our favorite neighborhoods in America, and instead, we may have even liked it better.

The first night in Chiang Mai, Rich walked the seven minutes to dinner repeating, “I love Chiang Mai. I love Chiang Mai.” He was giddy.

We went to dinner at Nimman Social, a part indoor, part outdoor bar/cafe attached to a nearby hostel. We drank a beer and ate two noodle dishes and the most incredible french fries, sitting under white bistro lights, for less than $10. Can’t beat it.

Nimman Social in Chiang Mai — Enjoying dinner at Nimman Social.

Day 91: Umm, We Enjoyed Nimman Some More

If you are reading this thinking you want to travel to Chiang Mai for a few days, umm, this may not be the itinerary you want to follow. If you are traveling the world for a year, I highly recommend a day EXACTLY like this.

How we spent our day:

Slept in.
Worked out in the apartment gym.
Walked to breakfast at Overstand Coffee. Ate avocado toast.
Found a bookstore that didn’t sell any fiction in English. Were directed to a bookstore in the mall.
Walked to the wrong mall, explored it.
Found the right mall, the MAYA Lifestyle Shopping Center, which happened to be unbelievably fabulous. Bought two books and a dress at H&M (on sale!).
Went home and went to the pool.
Got ready and ate dinner at the mall food court.

Perhaps you are wondering about this mall food court eating. That’s because you are imagining an American mall food court. This food court had every kind of Thai street food prepared fresh in clean booths for cheap. Remember: In Southeast Asia, we are eating the majority of our meals out. Being able to grab quick, casual, delicious, inexpensive dinner may have been one of our favorite parts of staying in Chiang Mai.

The outside of the Maya Lifestyle Shopping Center.

The INSIDE of the Maya Shopping Center. All of the games of mall madness I played as a young girl led to this…

Umm, this is pad thai BAKED INTO AN EGG. Genius, mall food court, genius.

Day 92: Temple Time in Chiang Mai

Rich and I woke up, hit the gym, and then enjoyed a yummy bowl of cheap chocolate cereal in our apartment. We decided we should probably check out some of the famous temples of Chiang Mai.

Wat Phra Singh

We walked from Nimman to Old City to reach Wat Phra Singh. Wat Phra Singh was one large, beautiful temple, surrounded by several smaller temples. Every year, during the Buddhist Songkran festival, the statue of Buddha that is housed here is paraded through Chiang Mai.

Not unlike what we witnessed in Sicily with the statue of Mary arriving on a boat to celebrate the Assumption!

Rich outside of one of the temples at Wat Phra Singh

Wat Chedi Luang

I had a bit of beef with Wat Chedi Luang because my new H&M dress was deemed to be too short, and so in order to enter the area, I had to borrow a big piece of cloth to wrap around my waist. I will eat that I knew that my dress didn’t come quite down to my knees and that I did some risk analysis on whether I would be able to skate through on temple entry (also similar to Catholicism– figuring out how to pull your school uniform skirt down to pass skirt checks-ha!).

What I did not bank on was receiving the longest piece of cloth ever when my skirt didn’t pass inspection and having said cloth reach my ankles. I was tied up pretty tight which made walking, well, pretty miserable.

But the temple was huge and old and really stately. So it was probably worth it. We just didn’t stay too long.

One of the smaller temples at Wat Chedi Luang

Rich Gets a Haircut!

After we left the temple, we got lunch in Old Town. The restaurant had a good TripAdvisor rating, but didn’t hold a candle to the mall food court.

We then walked back to Nimman for Rich to get his haircut. He did a lot of research and landed on 56 Barber Shop. Rich has very thick, curly hair, and as any of his family members reading this can attest to, is very particular about his appearance (I type this hearing his voice in my head say, “Isn’t it worth it in order to look this good?”).

Chan at 56 Barber Shop did a phenomenal job. He played old school hip hop (read: Biggie, Eve, J-Lo) the whole time and took close to an hour to get everything perfect. This was a big haircut a few days before Rich turned the big 4-0, and Chan came through. It also further fueled our belief that Chiang Mai is A-MAI-ZING (get it?).

After! This almost-40 year old walked out feeling great!

Dinner at the Mall Food Court

We couldn’t resist.

food court dinner in chiang mai — Pad thai meets nachos in this mall food court crispy pad thai dish. This was Rich’s VERY FAVORITE dish in the past 30 days and cost less than $2.

Day 93: Work Day in Chiang Mai

But First, Coffee

As I mentioned (over and over), Nimman had a ton of cute cafes. We wanted to try Ristr8to, a coffee shop that had won international latte art competitions. Our plan was to get a coffee and work on blogging/planning from there. However, while they had great lattes, they did NOT have air conditioning. That dog won’t hunt.

Nothing says good morning like this guy…

We spent at least an hour trying to figure out where to go to work with aircon (as they say over here) and WiFi and finally landed on Healthy B Cafe. I finished our Siem Reap blog post while Rich booked all of our lodging for Australia. Productivity win!

Healthy B in Chiang Mai — We enjoyed working from Healthy B!

Pool Time

We headed back to our glorious apartment pool. I had already finished Born a Crime, and Rich needed to finish it so we could leave it behind in the apartment. We both really loved it. Trevor Noah is of course hilarious, and he is also raw and direct about real systemic and familial challenges he faced during his childhood in South Africa at the end of apartheid. If you enjoy a good memoir about perseverance and chasing the life you believe you can have, pick this one up.

There was another American couple at the pool while we were. The young man was on sabbatical for a year from his job in Baltimore and was traveling long-term like us, and his girlfriend had flown in from New York to meet him for a two week vacation. He was a fellow Teach For America alum (go figure), and it was pretty interesting to share thoughts on places we had visited and exchange reflections.

Dinner at the Food Court

I’m telling you: so cheap and so good. We had already eaten at real restaurants twice that day! Don’t knock it until you try it.

Final Thoughts on Chiang Mai

I re-read this post, and I’m not sure I am capturing well what we loved so much about Chiang Mai, and perhaps that is because what we loved so much is that Chiang Mai felt like home. The apartment building felt like our apartment building in DC, and the cafes felt like our favorite coffee shops in Philly. Nimman was super walkable– we didn’t need Google maps to get around. We went to the gym, we read great books by the pool, we drank coffee slowly, we liked every bite of food we ate.

See, when you go on vacation, you want to see new things and explore different ways of life. Visit the temples; eat the fancy food; go, go, go.

But after 90 days on the road, in ten different countries, the escape we needed was to pretend we were home. Beautiful Chiang Mai gave us that from the minute our plane landed. That sense of home made Chiang Mai one of our most favorite destinations of all.

100%, we will make it back to Chiang Mai again.

October 4, 2018

Days 83 – 85: Vang Vieng, the Beautiful

So faithful readers will recall that due to one very nasty jellyfish (or family of jellyfish perhaps), I didn’t love our time in the Halong Bay. Fortunately, the same limestone cliffs found in the Halong Bay surround beautiful Vang Vieng, Laos. Same limestone, different outcome: we loved Vang Vieng.

Day 83: Travel to Vang Vieng, Laos

We thought we were taking a bus from Vientiane to Vang Vieng, but our bus ended up being a pretty regular-sized van. Most notably from the trip, everyone’s luggage was tied down on top of the van with a tarp on top of it, and the terrain was rugged. I’m not sure a bus could have passed over the washed out roads we took.

When we arrived in Vang Vieng, our cell phones couldn’t pick up any internet or regular service which made finding our AirBNB in a town we had never visited before a bit challenging. We decided to walk in the direction that everyone else from our van walked and hauled our belongings, which survived five hours of jostling on the roof of the van, about 10 minutes until we found an Amazon Cafe with free WiFi and could pull up a map.

Originally, we planned to stay in an AirBNB in Vang Vieng, but Rich found an amazing resort at a pretty reasonable price ($76/night) that he kept showing me over and over again (“Look at those views! The mountains! That swimming pool!”) so we changed our plans to stay there instead.

The Riverside Boutique Hotel in Vang Vieng

Staying at the Riverside Boutique Hotel was a great decision. All of the things that Rich saw in the pictures were better in real life. We walked into our room, and a scented candle was burning. We had arrived.

Day 84: Visiting a Limestone Cave and One of Many Blue Lagoons

When we started researching things to do in Vang Vieng, we realized quite a few of the things were pretty far outside of Vang Vieng. Rich suggested using the free hotel bicycles to bike to some far away trails and waterfalls, but all I could think of was the terrible dirt roads we had driven in on. Off-road biking didn’t appeal to me at all.

We decided instead to relax at the pool in the morning and then head to the closest “attraction,” a limestone cave and a blue lagoon in the afternoon.

Visiting the Tham Phu KHam Cave

The Tham Phu Kham cave was an easy 25 minute walk from our hotel. We paid a nominal toll to cross a big orange pedestrian bridge over the river, and then bought a ticket to the cave once across. We climbed a steep staircase to enter the cave, and then once we entered, we were the only ones inside. I had never had a cave to myself before!

The cave was really cool temperature-wise, which was a big relief from the Southeast Asian heat, and beautiful too. It was also a bit creepy, so I’ll go ahead and admit that we didn’t explore it too thoroughly for fear that we would forget our path out! I love my husband, but I can imagine other people who might handle being lost in a cave with more composure than he would.

The view of Vang Vieng from outside the cave.

Inside the cave. We are not the best cave photographers.

Cave in Vang Vieng — The climb up to the entrance of the cave

The Blue Lagoon

By the entrance to the cave, there is a decent sized natural swimming lagoon. During dry season, the water is very blue. We were there during rainy season so it was a little murky.

There were several other tourists there when we got there, and Rich was all about jumping in. Knowing that we had an actual pool back at a resort (and remembering my jellyfish fiasco), I was good to sit this one out and hold our stuff.

As we were walking over the bridge towards where you climbed in, about twelve boys between the ages of nine and thirteen came running towards the water. School had obviously just let out as they were discarding pieces of their school uniforms as they ran.

The first young man climbed up a tree and then out on to a branch over the water, and then he just let himself drop into the lagoon below. The next young man climbed up on top of the bridge and dove in. Each boy performed a feat crazier than the last to enter the water until they were all in the lagoon.

These kids were having the time of their lives.

Rich, meanwhile, slowly eased his way in to the icy waters, while children splashed and jumped around him. It was amazing.

Dinner at the Happy Mango Thai Restaurant

Vang Vieng has a reputation as a fairly wild backpacker town– apparently for years, backpackers would float down the Nam Sung river until they came upon a riverside bar where they would consume a beer or two, then float down the river until they encountered another bar, wash, rinse, repeat.

After a number of backpackers died (eeek!), town officials took some measures to cut down on some of the tomfoolery that resulted from all of this drinking and floating. However, several years later, Vang Vieng still has many more bars than restaurants.

When we saw fabulous Tripadvisor reviews for a place called The Happy Mango Thai Restaurant, we were all in. We went the first night we arrived, then back the second, and then spoiler alert: we also went the third. The prices were incredible; dinner each night averaged $10 total which included two entrees, two beers, and the BEST mango sticky rice for dessert.

Is it wrong to say that I ate my favorite Thai food in Southeast Asia in Laos? If Happy Mango is wrong, I don’t want to be right.

Rich posed with the lizard, and then said “Get the check.” The waitress laughed at him and shooed the lizard away.

Day 85: Umm, We Went to the Pool

We considered more hiking, visiting waterfalls, etc., but instead, it was raining so we decided to:

Sleep in.
Eat a glorious resort breakfast.
Read at the pool (once I picked up Crazy Rich Asians I couldn’t put it down– “frothy” was the exact right description on the back cover) when it wasn’t raining.
Work a little whenever the rain drove us inside.
Shower.
Go eat dinner at Happy Mango Thai Restaurant

Productive, huh? It doesn’t make much of a blog post, but it was a great day.

Vang Vieng, Laos: Were We Laid Back or What?

If you can’t tell from how relaxed we look in all of our pictures, Vang Vieng was a breeze. We had delicious hotel breakfast each morning, grabbed mango shakes and egg bahn mi once or twice for lunch, and ate Happy Mango Thai for dinner. We wore work out clothes or swimsuits every day, and I’m not sure I wore make up or used a blow dryer once.

The people in Vang Vieng were super friendly, and the rain gave us a bit of cover not to tackle all of the sightseeing we might otherwise feel like we should attempt. We were as relaxed in Vang Vieng as anywhere else we have been on the trip.

If you visit southeast Asia, have the stomach for a bumpy van ride, and are looking for somewhere where you can just be, add Vang Vieng to your list. We would go back in a heartbeat.