Days 129 – 133: Closing Out Bali In Canggu

Are you tired of reading about us going to the beach yet?  I’m not sure we will ever tire of being at the beach, and Canggu in Bali was certainly a beauty.

I will attempt to keep this post pretty short because a.) I’m behind like whoa on posts, and b.) we were total beach bums. Let me try to see what is worth sharing about being super lazy for five days in a beach town in Bali!

Day 129: Travel from Ubud to Canggu in Bali

We really loved our time in the hills of Ubud, Bali and were excited to see what going to the beach looked like in Bali.

I’ll spare you the details, but Ubud is decidedly anti-Uber.  Apparently, there is a really strong taxi, umm, union, and we cancelled our Uber after our driver gave us the sketchiest instructions: “Go into a cafe to wait for me.  Tell me your names, and when I come in, act like you have known me for a very long time.  Very long.  Do not, under any circumstances, wait on the street for me.  THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.”  Umm, we’re good.  Thank you, next.

After about an hour drive in a taxi, we arrived at our beautiful villa!  This AirBNB is owned by a woman from New York, and we had a bedroom and bath that walked out on to a pretty pool and courtyard.

Yes.  So Bali– this mural was in our villa’s driveway.
Pool in Canggu
At our villa in Canggu

For lunch, we walked down the street to a yummy Thai place called Bangkok Hustle.  And here I’m going to share what was probably our biggest frustration with Canggu: the sidewalk situation.

Bear with me.  We really do not have the budget to rent a car or bike or pay for taxis except for very infrequently.  We also love to walk and find it to be the best way to ensure we get enough exercise.  When walking turns out to be dangerous or difficult, we get really frustrated because it makes getting around that much harder.

Canggu was filled with twenty-something kids on holiday who all rent motorbikes, to the extent that there is motorbike traffic.  We also watched a very intoxicated woman run her bike off the road.  Seriously.  So being a pedestrian on these bike-filled roads was not our favorite.

For dinner, we found a place that served authentic banh mi.  Well, authentic in taste; they were delicious.  At about $3/sandwich, it was the cheapest meal we could find and at least twice as much as we paid while we were eating them in Vietnam.  Vietnam spoiled us for authentic, inexpensive, delicious street food!

Banh mi!

Day 130: Rich’s Third Haircut 

(Of the trip.)

We ate breakfast cooked for us at our villa, and then Rich walked to get his haircut, and I read by the pool.

His hair looked good! The barber left it a bit long on the top, so we’ll see how it does for the next six weeks…Stretching the time between haircuts is one more way to stretch the budget.

Rich’s haircut in Canggu

We spent the rest of the day blogging and planning and spending time at the pool.  If I were to name the place on the trip where we realized we were just worn out, it was definitely Canggu.  Being on the move for the past five months caught up with us!

For lunch, we ate our second banh mi and ate dinner at Bangkok Hustle…again.  It was during this dinner that we watched the young lady run her bike off of the road, and we bonded over the experience with an Australian couple next to us.

Bangkok Hustle in Canggu
Yummy Thai food at Bangkok Hustle

Joel and Jane, our new Australian friends, shared that many Australians treat Bali, and Canggu in particular, as their playground where they head to let loose.  We really enjoyed chatting with them and sharing experiences of long-term travel.  Joel and Jane are taking close to a year to explore Australia in a van.   As in they are living out of a van.  Hard core! Check out their blog if you are interested in learning more about what that’s like!

Day 131: Visiting the Beach at Canggu

We weren’t total beach bums; before breakfast, we jumped out of bed and did a couple of body weight workouts on my Aaptiv app.

We then enjoyed the breakfast provided by the villa and spent a few hours by the pool.  We ate lunch at a nearby cafe.  Bali has a plethora of amazing restaurants serving fresh, healthy food from around the world.  Our budget limits where and how much we eat, but if you are looking for a vacation where you enjoy a smoothie bowl for breakfast, a huge warm pumpkin quinoa bowl for lunch, and practically anything you can imagine for dinner, I highly recommend finding a way to get to Bali.

Healthy lunch options

Late in the afternoon, we walked to the beach to see it and catch a sunset.  Our walk was a good thirty minutes– remember, the sidewalk situation– but it was worth every step.  The beach was beautiful, with huge, powerful waves.  And there were so many surfers!  There were easily 50-75 surfers trying to catch a wave  when we arrived.  It was rather magical; I had never seen any kind of surfing scene like that.  It could have been in a movie.

We enjoyed walking the beach, and watching the sun set over the water.

For dinner, we ate at a great pizza place called Luigi’s Hot Pizza.  They had plenty of outdoor seating, white bistro lights, and lots of young male servers who clearly had a lot of fun working with each other.  We split a tiramisu for dessert, and it was divine.  Pizza + beach = great day

Day 132: Football + Work

The Georgia Bulldogs are enjoying a great season, and we woke up at 3:30 AM to cheer on the Dawgs against Kentucky.  Thankfully, Georgia won, and then we kept watching football to see the beginning of the Alabama v. LSU game.  Alabama quickly went to work against LSU, and we went ahead and ate breakfast.

And then, of course, we enjoyed our UGA victory nap.

We spent the rest of the day:

  • By the pool,
  • Followed by banh mi for lunch (again),
  • Followed by blog posting/trip planning,
  • And culminating in another dinner at Bangkok Hustle.
Smoothie Bowl at our villa

We are nothing if not consistent.

Day 133: La Brisa Beach Club

We spent our last full day in Bali– and in Asia!– at the beach.  Bali has a number of beach clubs.  Each club has a minimum spend on food and drinks, but then you get access to beach chairs, a pool, a pool deck, restrooms, and a restaurant and bar.  Finn’s Beach Club is probably the most well-known, but we decided to head to La Brisa as it opened pretty recently, and we liked its aesthetic.

The amount you have to spend is a little lower if you arrive earlier in the day, so we made the sidewalk-less trek over at about noon.

The set up was perfect!  We had chairs on the deck above the beach and were able to put our feet up on the ledge and take out our books.  We enjoyed a beer, read for several hours, took a quick swim in the pool, and then ordered lunch.  It was so relaxing and easy as all days at the beach should be!

 

For dinner, we grabbed, you guessed it, banh mi for dinner.  Our new favorite restaurant had a loyalty program where when you bought five banh mi, you got your sixth free.  In five short days, we had earned ourselves a free sandwich.  Hot dog! Did I mention we are budget travelers?

Final Thoughts on Canggu

Don’t get me wrong, Bali is pretty amazing.  It is one of the most visually stunning places we have visited, there is an abundance of delicious food, and it is really easy to navigate, even if you have not traveled abroad extensively.

We were pretty worn out by the time we made it to Canggu though, and one impression we had of Bali was just that everyone was trying to out Bali each other.  It’s a place where you hear sentences like, “Surfing brought such fulfillment to my inner small child while also empowering me as a fearless boss woman.  I really worked up an appetite so I cannot wait to devour my chi seed hemp milk with a side of raw organic sprouts.  But it also dried my skin out so let me apply this new placenta coconut oil lotion I just picked up.”

It is totally cool if you have that kind of energy, but at that point in our travels, wearing the same clothes out of the same backpack and living on a budget, we just did not.  We had a great five days, really, but we have come to realize that our favorite places are places that don’t try too hard to be who they are, or rather where the people who visit do not feel pressure to fit a certain mold and check off extravagant bucket list items.  We enjoyed Canggu for what it was for us: five more days to rest and re-charge together, surrounded by beauty.

 

Days 11- 14: Getting Started in Croatia with Zagreb and Rovinj

Dearest readers: please accept my sincere apologies for my delay in posting about Croatia.  It’s not you, it’s not Croatia, it’s me– I’m blaming it on the lack of WiFi for the SEVEN hours we were on a bus Tuesday.  Croatia is winning both in the World Cup and in our estimation, and I am excited to tell you more!

Day 11: Travel to Zagreb

Travel from Budapest to Zagreb was the easiest– we hopped on a FlixBus in Budapest and hopped off five hours in Zagreb.  That bus had free WiFi, spoiling all future basic bus rides for me forever, and a bathroom.  We walked about a mile to our AirBNB, bought some groceries, made some dinner (grilled cheese and Dalmation tomato soup) watched some World Cup.  Beautiful.

Day 12: 24 Hours in Zagreb

I can’t be the only one who reads those wonderful New York Times  24 Hours in XYZ city.  Well, we basically wrote our own/lived it on Saturday for Zagreb.  I should also mention that Croatia was playing Russia at 8 PM on a Saturday that night, so nationalism (aka tourists in Croatian flag gear) was in full force.

The Mirogoj Cemetery

This cemetery was beautiful.  Cemeteries are fascinating places to learn histories of an area.  While predominantly Christian, the Mirogoj Cemetery has the distinction of interring individuals and families from a myriad of faith backgrounds including Jews, Muslims, Catholics, Protestants, and those who consider themselves irreligious.  There was also a memorial and mass grave for more than 2,000 Croatian soldiers killed in World War I. Heartbreaking.

The Zagreb Cathedral

The gothic-style Zagreb Cathedral is the tallest building in all of Croatia.  The church is so old that it was destroyed by Mongrols in 1242 only to be re-built again, with a wall this time, several years later.  It experienced some earthquake damage in an 1880 earthquake, but it seemed that its greatest threat was really surviving through years of neglect and disrepair when Croatia was part of communist Yugoslavia.

The spires and bell tower on the Zagreb Cathedral
What the spires looked like at the end of Soviet era and how they will look once restored.
The Gothic interior
The Museum of Broken Relationships

Yes, really.  So the idea behind this museum is that we pay tribute to past history, civilizations, buildings, etc., but we do not always honor the most personal, and perhaps most deeply felt,  losses in our lives and the lives of others when relationships end.  Every obect in the museum was voluntarily donated along with a personal narrative.  Some were funny, some were dark, all were moving.

People: Broken, deep, resilient, beautiful.

When I moved out, and across the country, I took the toaster.  That’ll show you.  How are you going to toast anything now?
The Golden Horseshoe and Botanical GarDens

Zagreb is green and has plentiful parks and outdoor spaces.  They even have public workout equipment for adults!

In front of a pretty fountain
Amanda with flowers
Rich pumps iron.  Look at those guns.
Soccer in Plaza Ban Jelacic

I’m sure referring to Croatia’s World Cup game as soccer is about as insulting as referring to the University of Georgia’s appearance in the National Championship and the Philadelphia Eagles Super Bowl Victory as “some football.”

We decided to take all of it in by watching the Croatia v. Russia quarterfinal World Cup game in the largest of squares in Croatia.  After all, we had watched Germany’s World Cup game at the Brandenburg Gate in Berlin and Italy’s Olympic appearance in Rome.

Mistake.  Big Mistake. Huge.

First, the average age of the crowd was at least ten, if not fifteen years, younger than us.  When I buy a beer, especially on my limited travel-for-a-year-on-savings budget, I intend to drink it.  When our Croatian World Cup watchers bought beer, they might drink it or they might get so overcome singing along with a terrific pre-game anthem that they take the full beer and heave it cup and all into the air above the crowd.

Before the game. Only a little smoke.

Russia scored first.  I could not actually see the game from my spot in the crowd, but I did see grown men cry.

BUT WHEN CROATIA SCORED- actual fire torch flame things, sparklers, air horns, all the beer thrown in the air, all at once.  I started thinking about the anatomy of a human stampede (anyone else read this terrifying 2011 New Yorker article?) If you are not following us on Instagram, you should just to watch our saved Instagram story from Zagreb.

Mayhem after the goal

In our twenties, we absolutely would have stayed for the entire game.  Thankfully, in our thirties, we walked home quickly and watched Croatia win in a shoot out from the comfort of our Air BNB.

Home Sweet AirBNB Home

Day 13: Travel to Rovinj

Hopped on the bus- no Wifi- but still easy breezy ride to Rovinj.  The trip from Rovinj to the AirBNB?  Not so easy.

So our backpacks are about 20 lbs a piece these days.  I also carry a purse and whatever novels we are reading; Rich carries a smaller daypack with toiletries, first aid, odds and ends, etc.  Our packs are SUPER manageable on short walks.

The problem was our AirBNB was 5 kilometers (~3+ miles) from the bus station, and we decided we would walk it.

Rich walking with a heavy pack.
Amanda walking with a positive attitude and a less heavy pack.
We even made a dog friend!

I’ll sum it up to say it was super challenging, but we were troopers who persevered with positive attitudes.  Our AirBNB was beautiful when we got there, and we treated ourselves to a Croation Italian pasta feast with 1L of house wine.

Yum! Long walks should always be celebrated with pasta and wine.  This face says pre-nap.

And after our pasta, we napped!  For four hours.  Four hours worth of sleep is still a nap, right? All is well that ends well.

Day 14: Relaxation in Rovinj!

So we loved Rovinj and wish we had booked on extra day there.  As we mentioned, the town was a bit far from our AirBNB so once we were out we stayed out.  We managed to log about 11 miles of walking during the day by the time we made it back home.

Quick highlights:

  1. Until 1947, Rovinj was Rovigno, a part of Venice.  Italian influences abound from the delicious pizza we ate for lunch to the colorful buildings reminiscient of other Italian fishing villages to the fact that the town is bilingual and you hear locals shouting Ciao to each other as you walk down the street.
  2. Want to swim?  Find a rock or some grass by the sea.  You will see Croatians swimming everywhere.  We started on rocks in the morning and found a nice grassy spot in the local state park after lunch.
  3. The speed in Rovinj is chill.  It felt like being at the Jersey Shore or Kiawah Island.  People on holiday with no cares.
  4. We had a bomb backyard at our AirBNB. I used basil from the garden to make pesto that we ate on pasta sitting outside our last night. Perfection.
Beautiful Rovinj with its Italian influences
All smiles by the harbor
The Church of St. Euphemia
Want to sunbathe and swim? Pick a rock!
Our rock!
Rich is SERIOUS about pizza.
Feels like Venice to us!
Our state park grassy spot
By the sea loving.
Finally, our Croatian washing machine…
And our Croatian dryer!

Until next time, Ciao!