Iceland Archives · Bon Voyage on a Big Adventure!

Greetings! Blogging from campsites – as well as showering and staying warm, among other things- proved a bit difficult, but the free WiFi from the Reyjkjavik, Iceland airport is pumping right now so I will do my best to get caught up.

Continue with me along Iceland’s Golden Circle!

Day Four: The Solheimasandur Plane Wreck, the Black Sand Beaches of Vik, and the Skogafoss and Seljandsfoss Waterfalls

The Solheimasandur Plane Wreck

The legend goes that in 1973, a US Navy DC plane crashed outside of Vik, Iceland when the pilot failed to switch to the reserve gas tank, instead switching to an empty gas tank. No worries- everyone survived! The plane was abandoned, and now tourists walk two miles through black sand/rocks to see it and pretend they are doing a photo shoot for their next album cover. So natch, we did the same.

Have I mentioned that Iceland is not warm? Also, for most of our four mile walk, it was raining. It felt rather post-apocalyptic– imagine The Road by Cormac McCarthy.

I was trying for the album cover look. It’s a miss.

The Black Sand Beaches of Vik

From the plane crash, we drove a short distance to the scariest road I have ever been a passenger on to overlook a very foggy cliff. I have no pictures of said road because I was simultaneously saying Hail Mary’s and helping my non-glasses-wearing husband avoid potholes the size of VW bugs while we drove straight up a mountain on a gravel road. I should also point out that when my husband drives and does not wear his glasses, he says things like, “Why is that woman lying in that field? Oh, she’s a horse.”

From the top of the cliff, we hiked a long path to a beach overlook with a perfectly fine parking lot that looked like it was reached via a non-terrifying, paved road.

Pictured: Heavy Fog
Not Pictured: The Terrifying Road We Drove in the Heavy Fog

The Long Hike to the Beaches. I do not know why Rich is running. I was not running.

The Skogafoss and Seljandsfoss Waterfalls

If you are into waterfalls, you will be into Iceland.

Day 5: Jokulsarlon Glaciers and Pork and Beans

Jokulsarlon Glaciers

The drive to Jokulsarlon was long (~4 hours) and gas is expensive in Iceland (~$8/gallon), but I have never seen anything like these glaciers. When we first saw the massive sheet of ice on the side of one of the mountains, Rich couldn’t figure out what they were: “Is that sky? Is that water? What is that?”

The other thing I wish I could capture in these pictures is the sound the glaciers make. We had been looking at them for about ten minutes when we heard a sound that approximated two cars hitting each other head on. Instead, it was the sound of giant car-sized pieces of ice falling off and landing in the water. It was unreal.

The Glaciers Meet the Channel to the Ocean

Pork and Beans

As previously mentioned, Iceland is expensive- hence the camping and eating only one meal out in Iceland. Our second-to-last campsite, Svinafell, had both an area for tents and small cabins as well as an indoor cooking/dining area. When we arrived, an Icelandic hiking club had set up a full-on feast– we are talking wine, flowers and candles on the table, toasts, desserts, music (so. much. Ed. Sheeran. ), revelry galore. While we understood not a word of what they were saying, the atmosphere was really fun.

And we ate pork and beans. Hot, delicious, and on budget!

Day 6: Sunshine in Iceland!

While most of day 6 was spent driving back to Reykjavik, we did make two quick pit stops to hike at the Skaftafell National Park and to get one more view of the black sand beaches. We woke up to sunshine, and it was just so glorious.

At the Black Sand Beaches. It was super windy, and my eyes refused to open any wider than this for the picture.

There are not words to express how proud Rich was of himself for climbing on top of this rock.

Next Up: Budapest, Hungary!

Day Two: The Blue Lagoon and Thingvellir National Park

I don’t know if I mentioned that we went to bed at 6:45 PM on Tuesday night– remember, the Red Eye flight–but when we woke up in our tent in Reykjavik, Iceland on Wednesday morning at 8:30 AM, Rich looked at me and said, “You slept like an animal.” I think he meant some sort of bear or other hibernating creature, because we were both out. For fourteen hours. Apparently, being without a home and sleeping in a tent suits us. Sorry, mom.

After breakfast at the campsite, a quick walk down by the water in Reykjavik, and some campsite freshening up, we headed to the Blue Lagoon.

The Blue Lagoon

So what exactly is the Blue Lagoon? It isn’t natural– they have coined themselves a “geothermal spa,” probably because that sounds better than hot silica and sulfur runoff from the local geothermal power station. The minerals are supposed to do wonders for your skin, and the milky blue water makes for a banging Instagram picture so we booked our pricey $99/person entrance tickets as soon as we knew Iceland was stop #1.

And it was 100% worth it. Here’s why:

Iceland is cold. The Blue Lagoon is warm. I get it. We booked a trip to a country named Iceland– of course, it’s cold. Still the shock of leaving balmy DC in June and landing in a place where you have to wear two long sleeved shirts, a scarf, a hat, and a jacket was a little jarring. BUT the water in the Blue Lagoon is 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Spending HOURS in a huge jacuzzi was exactly what I needed to start to warm up (ha!) to Iceland a bit more.
As advertised, it makes your skin feel amazing. Your entrance fee includes a silicon mask that took years off of our faces. Maybe. They definitely felt smooth and tight when we rinsed the clay off.
We got to shower. We’re camping. The hot shower was glorious. There was a hair dryer. The end.

ThingvellIr National Park

Not our favorite. Our first campground in Rejkjavik had a large kitchen and indoor eating area, free wifi, and super clean bathrooms. The campground at Thingvellir had bugs. Like really a lot of them- gnats that flew right at your face and swarmed around your head like Linus on Peanuts. I know things could be much worse than trying to set up a tent with twenty five bugs trying to fly in my mouth, but I would like to spare my dear readers this experience. If you ever camp in Iceland, camp at the campgrounds with indoor kitchens and no bugs.

On the upside, Wednesday was our third wedding anniversary, and once we finished cooking outdoors being attacked by gnats, we enjoyed an incredibly romantic hot dog dinner in our SUV.

Day Three: Haukadalur Geysers, Gullfoss Waterfall, Kerio Crater Lake, and Lots of Icelandic Horses and Anti-Social Sheep

Haukadalur Geysers

The earth spontaneously spewing gas into the air is kind of crazy, right?

Gullfoss Waterfall

The first of many, many Icelandic waterfalls on the Golden Circle. This waterfall was mighty and awe-inspiring, but I think my favorite part was that all of the signs and literature were devoted to Sigríður Tómasdóttir, an Icelandic woman who led tours for years and then fought to keep the beautiful falls out of private hands. She was rather severe looking but determined. Love it.

Kerio Crater Lake

We almost skipped this one because there was a charge and Iceland is expensive, but we didn’t and it ended up being one of our favorite spots. It is a giant crater with a lake at the bottom, and we were able to hike in a big giant circle and then down to the bottom. Our pictures turned out great, in my humble opinion, and still don’t do the spot justice.

We should really ask someone else to take our picture.

Rich climbing on some volcanic leftovers.

Icelandic Horses and Anti-Social Sheep

So in Iceland, there are horses and sheep everywhere. Since Iceland is an island, the horses were isolated for many years and are a different breed from, umm, normal horses. They are really beautiful but to take a picture of them, you have to pull off the road and then approach animals on someone else’s land. We are not very good at that.

Evidence A: We were driving along, and we saw some sheep! These sheep were outside the fence. Maybe they are wild sheep! Here is our opportunity to Instagram some wild Icelandic sheep!

So Rich pulls a u-turn, we pull in a driveway, approach the sheep….and they run away. Who knew sheep were fast? Maybe they are tired of appearing on Instagram. I got a terrible shot of the sheep, but ended up with a great shot of my handsome husband. More soon!