Days Four, Five, and Six in Iceland: A Plane Wreck, More Waterfalls, Glaciers, Celebrations, and Sunshine

Greetings!  Blogging from campsites – as well as showering and staying warm, among other things- proved a bit difficult, but the free WiFi from the Reyjkjavik, Iceland airport is pumping right now so I will do my best to get caught up.

Continue with me along Iceland’s Golden Circle!

Day Four: The Solheimasandur Plane Wreck, the Black Sand Beaches of Vik, and the Skogafoss and Seljandsfoss Waterfalls

The Solheimasandur Plane Wreck

The legend goes that in 1973, a US Navy DC plane crashed outside of Vik, Iceland when the pilot failed to switch to the reserve gas tank, instead switching to an empty gas tank.  No worries- everyone survived!  The plane was abandoned, and now tourists walk two miles through black sand/rocks to see it and pretend they are doing a photo shoot for their next album cover.  So natch, we did the same.

Have I mentioned that Iceland is not warm?  Also, for most of our four mile walk, it was raining.  It felt rather post-apocalyptic– imagine The Road by Cormac McCarthy.

Totally isolated, crashed DC bomber
Rich with the bomber
I was trying for the album cover look. It’s a miss.
Bleak, huh?
The Black Sand Beaches of Vik

From the plane crash, we drove a short distance to the scariest road I have ever been a passenger on to overlook a very foggy cliff.  I have no pictures of said road because I was simultaneously saying Hail Mary’s and helping my non-glasses-wearing husband avoid potholes the size of VW bugs while we drove straight up a mountain on a gravel road.  I should also point out that when my husband drives and does not wear his glasses, he says things like, “Why is that woman lying in that field?  Oh, she’s a horse.”

From the top of the cliff, we hiked a long path to a beach overlook with a perfectly fine parking lot that looked like it was reached via a non-terrifying, paved road.

Pictured: Heavy Fog
Not Pictured: The Terrifying Road We Drove in the Heavy Fog
The Black Sand Beaches
The Long Hike to the Beaches. I do not know why Rich is running. I was not running.
More Black Sand
The Skogafoss and Seljandsfoss Waterfalls

If you are into waterfalls, you will be into Iceland.

 

Day 5: Jokulsarlon Glaciers and Pork and Beans

Jokulsarlon Glaciers

The drive to Jokulsarlon was long (~4 hours) and gas is expensive in Iceland (~$8/gallon), but I have never seen anything like these glaciers.  When we first saw the massive sheet of ice on the side of one of the mountains, Rich couldn’t figure out what they were: “Is that sky?  Is that water?  What is  that?”

The other thing I wish I could capture in these pictures is the sound the glaciers make.  We had been looking at them for about ten minutes when we heard a sound that approximated two cars hitting each other head on.  Instead, it was the sound of giant car-sized pieces of ice falling off and landing in the water.  It was unreal.

Giant Sheets of Ice
Amanda with Glaciers
The Glaciers Meet the Channel to the Ocean
The Glaciers Meet the Sea
Pork and Beans

As previously mentioned, Iceland is expensive- hence the camping and eating only one meal out in Iceland.  Our second-to-last campsite, Svinafell, had both an area for tents and small cabins as well as an indoor cooking/dining area.  When we arrived, an Icelandic hiking club had set up a full-on feast– we are talking wine, flowers and candles on the table, toasts, desserts, music (so. much. Ed. Sheeran. ), revelry galore.  While we understood not a word of what they were saying, the atmosphere was really fun.

And we ate pork and beans. Hot, delicious, and on budget!

Pork and Beans!

Day 6: Sunshine in Iceland!

While most of day 6 was spent driving back to Reykjavik, we did make two quick pit stops to hike at the Skaftafell National Park and to get one more view of the black sand beaches.  We woke up to sunshine, and it was just so glorious.

Our campground bathed in sunlight.
Hiking in Skaftafell
We reached the top!
Sun is awesome.
At the Black Sand Beaches. It was super windy, and my eyes refused to open any wider than this for the picture.
There are not words to express how proud Rich was of himself for climbing on top of this rock.

Next Up: Budapest, Hungary! 

Book #1: Pachinko by Min Jin Lee

I love to read and knew I would want to read as much as possible on our trip.  There are so many readers whom I love in my life,  but I should just go ahead and dedicate all of my book reviews to Elise, one of the best high school English teachers I know, who recommends all of my favorite books.

Elise recommended Pachinko by Min Jin Lee months ago, and when it arrived and was 479 pages long, I thought, “What a perfect book for the first several weeks of travel.”

Unfortunately/fortunately, it was so good that I started it on day one out of the country only to finish it on day two.  While a respectable case of jet lag and 22 hours of daylight in Iceland certainly contributed to this being such a quick read, Pachinko was also just that good.  Five Stars.  Read it.

The basics: The story follows four generations of a family of Korean immigrants to Japan from 1900 through 1989.  The character development is deep, allowing you to understand why each character makes both the good and bad choices he or she makes and to also watch the intergenerational effects of those decisions play out.

Reading this made me remember what it was like to read a romantic novel at my all-girls Catholic school and then to have it out defending character’s choices with my classmates.  Pachinko begs for the same sort of moral wrestling as Wuthering Heights, The Good Earth, Jane Eyre, Pride and Prejudice, and The Scarlet Letter.  Like I need someone from St. Cecilia to read this and call me tomorrow.

Rich suggested that I end my book reviews with a reflection relating my reading to my travel.  A major theme of Pachinko revolves around the idea of what home is when you are outside of your native land.  It hit me on a long car ride today through southern Iceland that usually when a vacation winds down you think of all the things you cannot wait to go home and do.  For us, it’s to spread out on our big couch and catch up on a show.  This time, however, my big couch is in storage, and when we leave Iceland, we will be in Budapest.  How do you build home when you no longer have one physical place that you live?  How do you build home when you are an outsider in a foreign land?

Read this book!  Thanks, Elise!

Pachinko and Waterfalls in Iceland